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Sewer Line Repair Broward

Cast Iron Pipe Replacement in Broward County

We replace original cast iron drain lines in Broward County homes with PVC to current Florida code, quoting yard runs and under-slab runs as separate lines. Every job starts with a recorded camera inspection, and the footage is yours, so the quote covers named defects rather than old-looking pipe. We Fix It Right the First Time or It's Free.

Two cast iron pipe sections side by side, one heavily scaled and one newly cut open

What does cast iron pipe replacement in Broward County include?

Cast iron pipe replacement in Broward County includes a recorded camera inspection that names and locates each defect, a quote that prices yard runs and under-slab runs on separate lines, removal of the failed 1960s and 1970s cast iron, new PVC laid to Florida Building Code, a camera survey of the finished pipe, and restoration of the sod, hardscape or interior floor that was opened. Yard and slab are quoted separately because they are different jobs: one is landscaping to restore, the other is floor demolition and rebuild inside an occupied house. Many houses need only one of the two done now.

The scale of the job is why it gets its own page. The Cast Iron Soil Pipe Institute puts cast iron’s service life at 50 to 75 years. In South Florida, with a high water table, sandy fill and ground that never dries out, regional contractor reporting puts the practical figure closer to 40 to 50. Roughly 35% of South Florida living units built in the 1960s and 1970s went in with cast iron, per bioresponsecorp.com, and PVC did not become standard in Florida residential construction until the late 1970s. That makes about 1975 the practical threshold, and U.S. Census ACS 2024 five-year data, table B25034, shows how much of Broward sits below it:

City Median year built % built pre-1980
Lighthouse Point 1968 83.5
Hollywood 1969 74.7
Wilton Manors 1971 73.7
Fort Lauderdale 1972 66.3
Oakland Park 1972 66.1
Pompano Beach 1974 67.0

What a full replacement visit covers, in order:

  • Clearing the line if it is blocked, since a camera cannot see through standing water
  • A camera run with a surface locate, marking each defect’s distance and depth on the ground
  • A written quote with yard excavation, under-slab work, materials, restoration and permits as separate lines
  • Removal of the cast iron, or abandonment in place where a new route is cheaper than extraction
  • New PVC on bedding, to code, with a camera survey of the finished run
  • Restoration: sod and beds outside, concrete and floor finish inside

What goes back in is set by Florida’s Building Code, Plumbing Chapter 7. On filled or unstable ground, the clause that describes most of Broward, the building sewer must conform to a standard for ABS, cast iron, copper or copper-alloy, PVC or PP pipe, and PVC DWV is permitted in SDR26, SDR35, SDR41, PS50 or PS100. SDR 35 PVC is an approved residential spec and is the standard replacement. Where pipe bursting is used to pull new pipe through the old route, the code requires HDPE, SDR 17, ASTM F714, with a video camera survey of the completed section approved by the code official.

The hero photograph above is the reason the inspection has to be recorded. Two lengths of cast iron from the same era can look like the two sections in that image, one with a deep channel worn along the invert and the other merely pitted, and only the camera says which one is under a given floor.

Do cast iron pipes need to be replaced?

Cast iron pipes need to be replaced when a camera finds a defect that cannot be repaired or lined: channeling across more than one section, a belly or back-pitch, an offset joint that has moved, or a collapse. They do not need to be replaced because they are old, dark, or scaled on video. Surface rust and scale are the expected condition of fifty-year-old cast iron and are not, on their own, a verdict. A single crack in sound pipe is a spot repair, and a corroded pipe that still holds its shape and grade can often be lined instead of dug out.

A plumber reading footage of an old cast iron line showed what a fair assessment sounds like: “Looks like a sag in the line between 15’ and 34’. Or it may be very flat and needs to be flushed and jetted. I didn’t see any cracks, offsets, or roots. Inside of cast iron pipes look like that and replacing due to rust isn’t a typical reason to replace them unless there’s a visible issue on the outside.” That is a fifty-year-old pipe being reported as serviceable, with one specific concern at a specific distance.

What changes the verdict is a defect the camera can name and locate:

  • Channeling: the bottom of the pipe corroded away, leaving a trough instead of a round bore. Replacement of the affected run.
  • Cracks or fractures through the wall, as opposed to surface scale. Spot repair if the wall either side is sound.
  • Offsets at joints where sections have shifted apart. Excavate and re-couple, or pipe bursting; a liner cannot cure across a step.
  • Bellies or sags holding standing water, which no cleaning corrects and no liner removes. Replacement.
  • Root intrusion, which proves an opening already exists. Jet, then seal the joint by lining or replace the section.

Cast iron fails from both sides at once, which is why channeling is the Broward signature. Inside, sewage produces hydrogen sulfide, which bacteria convert to sulfuric acid at the pipe crown. Outside, moisture and dissolved minerals corrode the wall from the soil side, and a pipe spending fifty years in damp sand corrodes along its whole length rather than at isolated spots. The pipe thins everywhere and then loses its bottom in the section that carries the most flow, usually the kitchen and laundry run under the slab.

The two cities where this matters most are the two oldest. Hollywood’s median year built is 1969, with 52.8% of its 72,553 units built before 1970, per the same Census table. Lighthouse Point’s median is 1968. In Pembroke Pines, by contrast, the median is 1992 and only 23.1% of units are pre-1980, so cast iron there is the exception, mostly in the 1960s Pines Village pocket, and a replacement recommendation for a 1990s Pines house should be treated with suspicion.

We report what the camera finds, section by section, and we say which sections need nothing. If the line has one defect, one defect is what gets quoted.

How expensive is it to replace cast iron pipes?

Replacing cast iron pipes in South Florida runs $80 to $250 per linear foot per regional contractor reporting, with whole-home replacement averaging near $10,000, and the under-slab portion is where the range widens: one Florida homeowner was quoted $14,300 for ten feet of pipe under the slab of a 1964 house. That figure is concrete, containment and floor rebuild. Yard runs price like excavation and sod. Under-slab runs price like demolition inside an occupied house. That is why we quote them as separate lines, and why many homeowners do only the yard run this year.

Saw-cut trench through a terrazzo floor exposing old cast iron drain pipe under a Florida slab

Yard runs. Excavator, trench, new SDR 35 PVC on bedding, backfill, sod. The house stays livable and the restoration is landscaping. Depth is the multiplier: below roughly ten feet a trench needs collapse protection, a larger machine and more crew, and a reply on a public forum put the reason in one line: ten feet of depth is heavy equipment and requires trench collapse protection. A run under a paver driveway or pool deck adds a demolition and a rebuild.

Under-slab runs. The floor is cut, as in the photograph above, the trench is dug by hand inside the room, spoil is carried out through the house, and everything is reversed afterward. Tile, wood and terrazzo rarely survive. Families often move out for part of it. The price is the floor and the containment far more than the pipe.

The reported figures, with their sources:

Figure Scope Source
$80–$250 per linear foot Cast iron replacement, South Florida Regional contractor reporting
~$10,000 Average whole-home cast iron replacement Regional contractor reporting
$14,300 10 feet of under-slab replacement, 1964 Florida house Homeowner report
$4,500 vs $14,000 Two quotes for the same 30-foot lining job Homeowner report
$5,000 to $40,000 Observed range across sewer jobs Plumber, public forum

These are reported ranges, not our prices. Their spread is the useful part. One plumber summarized the estimating reality: “No one can give you a price for this. I’ve seen sewer repairs cost $5000 and I’ve seen them cost $40,000.” That is true before a camera run and much less true after one, because length, depth, surface and the specific defects are then known conditions.

Two things bring the number down. The first is lining where the pipe allows it: a corroded pipe that still holds its shape and grade can have a resin liner cured inside it through an existing cleanout, removing most of the excavation. A homeowner reported 30 feet relined for $4,500 against a competing quote of $14,000 for the same work. A bellied, offset or collapsed line cannot be lined at any price, and the camera settles which case a house is. The second is scope: a line with one channeled section under the kitchen and sound pipe elsewhere is a section job, and the sound pipe gets scoped again in a few years rather than replaced now.

Get more than one bid on any job over about $5,000, and make them comparable by having every bidder quote against the same recorded footage with yard, slab, restoration and permits itemized. To get a scoped, itemized cast iron quote, request a free quote.

Should I replace my cast iron pipes now, or wait until they actually fail?

Waiting is a legitimate position when a camera shows no active defect, and replacing now is the better position when it shows one, because the two paths are not symmetric in cost. A planned replacement is scheduled, competitively quoted, and done with dry floors. An emergency replacement follows sewage coming up through a shower pan or laundry floor drain, and it carries cleanup and remediation on top of the plumbing. In Florida a third factor applies: carriers examine original plumbing at renewal, so the cost of doing nothing sometimes arrives as a surcharge or a non-renewal rather than as a backup.

A Florida homeowner asked the question exactly as most people in a pre-1975 house eventually ask it: “I’m curious about how current owners of older Florida houses are dealing with the cast iron issues under their homes. Is everyone rushing to repair before the plumbing fails or are you adopting a wait and see what happens position.” One reply in the same thread stated the wait-and-see case: “I’m not spending $20K unless I have to. I’d wait until there’s an issue.” That is a reasonable stance, with one condition attached: it should rest on footage, since the outside of the house says nothing about the inside of the pipe.

The honest way to decide is a camera run, which is the cheapest step in the whole process at a reported $150 to $400 and about an hour on site. It produces one of three answers:

What the camera shows Reasonable posture
Scale and rust, pipe round and graded, no cracks, offsets or roots Wait. Re-scope in a few years or at the first symptom.
One named defect in otherwise sound pipe Repair or line that section on a planned schedule.
Channeling in more than one section, a belly, an offset or roots at several joints Replace on your timetable, before it is on the pipe’s.

Two 1968 houses on the same street can be a decade apart in what the line actually looks like. Cast iron does not fail on a schedule; it fails when the wall is gone, and in Broward’s damp sand that happens closer to the 40-to-50-year mark that regional contractor reporting gives than to the 75-year top of the Cast Iron Soil Pipe Institute’s range. A house built in 1969 is at 57 years.

The warning signs that mean waiting is over are the Florida ones, since these houses are slab-on-grade with no basement to absorb a backup: a sinking or soft strip in the yard along the line, sewer odor rising through slab joints or an unused guest bathroom, drain flies indoors, two fixtures interacting when one is used, and repeat backups at the lowest drain. A backup that arrives with heavy rain is strong evidence of a break rather than a blockage, because a high water table pushes groundwater into a cracked line.

“We scope, mark the runs, and price yard and slab separately. Plenty of houses only need one of them this year.”

Will insurance cover cast iron pipe replacement?

Whether insurance covers cast iron pipe replacement is a question for the carrier and the policy, and the pattern homeowners report is that standard policies treat corrosion, wear and root intrusion as maintenance rather than sudden accidental loss, which puts a planned replacement of old pipe outside coverage in most cases. What Florida homeowners also report is that the carrier gets involved from the other direction: at renewal, over the presence of original cast iron. This page states that as reported experience, not as insurance advice.

A Florida homeowner in the same cast iron thread put both halves together: “he said he’s seen some still going 100 years, so don’t fix what isn’t broken. But then insurers in Florida will look for any reason to charge more or drop coverage.” In Florida the driver for replacement is often the carrier rather than a backup. The cost of leaving cast iron in place sometimes arrives as a surcharge or a non-renewal, and a documented replacement or lining, with footage and a permit record, is the kind of evidence a carrier can act on.

The distinction insurers generally draw is between a sudden event and a gradual one. A pipe that has thinned over fifty years and lost its bottom is gradual. Water damage from a backup can be a separate question from the pipe that caused it, which is why photographing the extent of any backup before cleanup matters, and why the recorded camera footage is worth keeping with the policy documents: it dates the condition of the line.

What to ask a carrier before deciding on a replacement:

  • Whether original cast iron drain lines affect the current premium or the next renewal
  • Whether a documented replacement or lining, with permit and footage, changes their position
  • Whether the policy distinguishes the pipe from the resulting water damage, and how
  • Whether a pre-purchase camera report on a house under contract affects insurability

The pre-purchase case is the one where the answer shifts the economics most. A buyer of a 1977 Florida house asked on a plumbing forum: “These cast iron pipes are under the slab. Should I run? Candidate for lining?” The best reply in that thread was to get a video inspection to see the current state inside, rather than speculating from the outside. A camera run before closing, at a reported $150 to $400, can identify a five-figure liability while the contract is still negotiable, and it produces the same recording a carrier or a second contractor can read.

We do not interpret policies. We produce the record a homeowner needs to have that conversation: footage naming each defect and its location, a quote itemized by yard and slab, a permit where the work requires one, and a camera survey of the finished pipe. The guarantee sits on top of that record. We Fix It Right the First Time or It’s Free: if the section we replaced fails again from the same defect, we come back and redo the work at no charge.

Frequently asked questions

Will cast iron pipes affect my Florida homeowners insurance?

They can. Florida carriers examine original plumbing in older homes closely, and the cost of leaving cast iron in place sometimes arrives as a surcharge or a non-renewal rather than as a backup. Ask your carrier whether documented replacement or lining changes their position before deciding.

How much does it cost to replace cast iron pipes under a Florida slab?

Under-slab work is the most expensive case because the price is concrete, containment and floor rebuild rather than pipe. One Florida homeowner was quoted $14,300 for ten feet under a 1964 house. Whole-home cast iron replacement in South Florida averages near $10,000.

Should cast iron drain pipes be replaced?

Not automatically. Surface rust and scale are the expected condition of fifty-year-old cast iron and are not a verdict. Replacement is indicated by a named defect: channeling across multiple sections, a belly, an offset, or a collapse. A single crack in sound pipe is repairable.

How long does a sewer line replacement take?

A trenchless lining on a residential lateral is usually one or two days. An open-trench yard replacement typically runs two to four days including restoration. Under-slab replacement inside a house takes longer and often means moving out for part of it.

Call (954) 280-5472Book a camera inspection